Instituto Bolívar de Estrategia y Diálogo
Pensamiento Estratégico, Diálogo Global

Chef Elena Reygadas Brings Mexico Top Sustainability Honor

May 31, 2025, 04:15

Elena Reygadas, renowned Mexican chef, has achieved another groundbreaking accolade for her culinary prowess. Her restaurant, Rosetta, which boasts a Michelin star, has been awarded the prestigious three stars by the Food made Good initiative, the highest certification from the British Sustainable Restaurant Association. This recognition highlights businesses that excel not only in flavor but also in environmental care.

Reygadas, at 48, views sustainability as a lifestyle and collaborates with like-minded individuals. "We've always aspired to run a restaurant that offers delicious meals using Mexican ingredients, while also practicing sustainability and nurturing the earth," she shares during a late-night call with América Futura from Stockholm, following a dinner event. Her objective is not to flaunt her success but to inspire other chefs in Mexico to adopt more responsible practices.

The British Sustainable Restaurant Association provides guidance in addition to evaluations. Reygadas appreciates the adaptability offered, stating that "it's wonderful that there are various ways to fit different contexts without necessarily requiring large investments." Her journey to achieving this certification began three years ago, pondering how sustainable practices could be implemented in a metropolis like Mexico City, where life often feels disconnected from natural cycles.

Rosetta's transformation into a circular restaurant, eliminating single-use plastics and minimizing organic waste, has spurred creativity in the menu. This endeavor led to the creation of iconic dishes like kale tacos with pistachio pipián and romeritos, born from the need to reduce kale waste.

Reygadas explains, "When we look at ingredients and strive to use not just the fruit's pulp but also its peel and seed, a wider range of flavors emerges, making the culinary experience exhilarating." The restaurant has also found innovative ways to manage waste, collaborating with designer Marisol Centeno, who uses avocado peels to dye fabrics. Leftover bread at Rosetta is repurposed into paper or ingredients for beer or fermented beverages.

This commitment has led Reygadas to assemble a team dedicated to preserving the earth and supporting its inhabitants, from producers to partners, employees, and diners. "As chefs and restaurateurs, we hold significant responsibility because we are in contact with those who provide our ingredients, people in the fields, and our patrons," she states.

At Rosetta and her other establishments in Mexico City's Juárez, Roma, and Condesa neighborhoods, designed as a walkable "constellation" for convenience during her daughters' childhood, conveying the story behind each dish made with seasonal ingredients is crucial. "If we don't communicate the effort involved in agriculture and food production, it will be challenging to truly care for the land," she emphasizes.

Convinced of the transformative power of small collective actions, Reygadas encourages leaving behind supermarkets and packaged foods to engage with local markets and growers. This movement back to the land is gaining traction among Latin American chefs, revitalizing local ingredients once overlooked. Reygadas asserts, "Nature is far wiser than us, and we must observe and respect it. I'm fascinated by the rich world of plants, not only diverse in flavors and nutrients but also gentle on the planet, unlike many practices in the animal protein-driven food system. Latin America can showcase ingredients that are generous and less demanding on the earth, deserving of our appreciation and use, such as amaranth, corn, beans, quelites, and legumes."

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